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I was in the water at Morro Bay this morning when suddenly, in the distance, I saw this huge set begin to form in the distance. “Oh, (expletive),” I said, and began frantically paddling toward the horizon. Each time I paddled over a wave, it seemed there was another one farther out — and bigger. “Oh, (expletive),” I said again, paddling harder. Finally, when I was sure it was all over — with my heart racing – I turned to watch the back of the wave before an explosion of white water marked i

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Big Wave Pioneer Returns To Pismo