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“Outracing the exploding lip of a breaking wave is like sking in front of an avalanche” says Sean Collins of SurfLine Surf Forecaster. Since the ancient Hawaiians first slid shoreward on their hand-carved Olo boards, riding the biggest wave of the day has continued to be one of surfing’s most revered accomplishments. But while the professional surfing circuit has blossomed over the last two decades, offering millions of dollars in prize money to agile small-wave performers, there has been no

Source:
The World’s Most Extreme Waves - The Americas